Thursday, October 21, 2010


Just for fun, here's a couple pics of Chris's regency shirt in progress. There are no shoulder seams, so you just cut a "T" shaped hole for the head, and then gather the neckline up into the collar.

Shirt without collar
Shirt with Collar.
I made him take off his dress shirt
because the collar would get in the way,
but he's still wearing a t-shirt.
It's just hidden under the folds, sleeves and all!

Pattern illustration of the neckline, gusset & shoulder strap

One little detail at the neckline is the gusset - a gusset is a little patch of fabric that fits into a seam to allow more ease. Here, they're triangular-shaped and go at the corners of the headhole, and then get covered over by a strip at the shoulder. I thought they were a cool detail, but was irritated when my gussets disappeared almost entirely under the shoulder strap and collar (of course, they'll be completely covered by the waistcoat and tailcoat anyway, but I was still irritated).

Nearly Invisible Gusset!

I was thinking that the next time I make a shirt, I might just leave the gusset out and make sure to reinforce the cut edge extra. Then I was thinking about the purpose of a gusset - to give ease - and I realized that the neck gusset is more function than style. Plus, since the gusset is a square, cut diagonally, it's on the bias which helps it curve around the neck. I have a new respect for the neck gusset!

Neck Gusset - Inside View
X-Large pic so that you can (hopefully) see the bias grain


  1. Oooh... I remember that part! I hate gussets. I think nearly everyone I know thinks they're no big deal, but to me they're mind boggling... especially when flat felled!
    Everything looks amazing so far! You've got me wondering what we're going to wear this year, but after seeing all your progress I'm remembering how much work it is! hehe.

  2. Whew! Glad you think I'm making progress - sometimes I'm not so sure! ;)

  3. Did you use the Kannik's pattern? I love their patterns :) Your shirt looks awesome!

  4. I did use the Kannik's Korner pattern - I have a review almost ready to go, but I have to snap some decent pictures first. Thanks for the compliment!

  5. Having found a few photos of original garments online, I am surprised at the variations in shoulder and collar construction. Then remembered that shirts were made by the womenfolk for their men, resulting in their own patterns. A bit like the great variety of stays I've seen (some are most odd, indeed!)