Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Melton and Hymo and Canvas, Oh My!

As we get deeper and deeper into the year, the next Jane Austen Evening looms closer and closer...so rather than working on the coat, which should be my priority, I've been stalling and working on the other (easier) parts. I think Chris might be getting worried that he'll be coatless, cause he's been nudging me back to working on it. He'd rather have a tailcoat than trousers...to each their own! ;)

We set a shopping date to go to B. Black in downtown LA this Saturday. I'm hoping to get everything in one trip because their hours are a little limited so going back several times would be a pain. This means I need to figure out how the darned thing goes together, so I can get the right stuff - easier said than done!

I've only found a couple resources that describe Regency men's coat construction. To Cut a Regency Coat offers descriptions of the inner construction, and Men's Garment's 1830-1900 has a couple pages and a diagram. Not much to go from, but it's a start. Oh! And Lauren has progress shots of her tailcoat in this blog post.

What I've learned is that these garments were less heavily tailored than jackets today - no shoulder pads, self facing/lining at the front, and only a canvas or linen stay at the back neck (the back is unlined). The front skirts were lined with a contrast fabric.

I'm a little panicked, but lists make me feel more in control. What am I missing?

Shopping List
Wool Melton for Body & Front Facing
Contrast Fabric? for Collar
Lining (cotton?) for front skirt & maybe sleeves
Hymo for front interfacing & front shoulder
Collar Canvas for collar interfacing (I already have some, or else I wouldn't be so spendy!)
Undercollar Felt
Twill Tape for roll line
Buttons (self-covered?)

Can I just say how glad I am that I'm skipping making Halloween costumes this year?


  1. Ooh! You're getting into the exciting bit!
    Wish we could come with to B.Black. I love that place.
    I had the darndest time trying to figure out what to line the tails with. I think I finally settled on cotton sateen after looking at some of Matt's Victorian coat. Oh yeah, and Fashion in Detail from the V&A. GREAT detail shots of menswear in the 19th century one :)

  2. Cotton Sateen! That's great. I knew I wouldn't like cotton in a plain weave, but I didn't think silk would be right either. I bet it'll be easier to find the right weight in a sateen, too. Thanks for the tip! :)